Watery feces have become a common occurrence in horses. This refers to the passage of a blackish-brown, usually acidic liquid along with the feces. The feces themselves are normally shaped. Watery feces may be passed independently or along with the feces. In severe cases, it is excreted in a gush. It may be a persistent condition, occur only in winter or summer, or appear intermittently—for example, during stressful situations such as loading. Fecal water is far more than just a cosmetic problem.
The exact cause of feces-in-urine has not yet been sufficiently studied. In most cases, it is a multifactorial condition (i.e., involving many contributing factors). However, watery feces occur predominantly under modern husbandry conditions. Stress is considered the main triggering factor. This can result from husbandry and feeding conditions that are not species-appropriate, but also from prolonged or recurring pain, such as that caused by stomach ulcers (see related article), bloating, or laminitis (see related article).
Possible diet-related triggers include:
Another cause of watery feces can be dental problems associated with inadequate feed grinding. This particularly affects older horses.
Affected horses excrete a blackish-brown fluid along with their feces—immediately after defecation, during flatulence (=bloating), or independently of defecation.
If your horse’s feces smell sour despite appearing normal, you should still test for fecal water. To do this, squeeze out a small amount of freshly passed feces. If fecal water is present, it will have a significantly higher liquid content than normal feces.
The runoff from fecal fluid can cause skin inflammation and vaginal infections in the soiled area.
When you report watery feces, your veterinarian will first ask about your horse’s specific living and feeding conditions. Then, he or she will perform a general examination as well as a rectal examination (a physical examination through the rectum). Diarrhea should be ruled out, although there are also mixed forms of diarrhea and watery feces. In addition, your veterinarian will perform a fecal examination, which can determine, among other things, the pH level, composition, and bacterial flora of the feces. The feces will also be examined for worm infestation. A blood test will be used to check organ function and inflammation markers, as well as selected trace elements and vitamins. Furthermore, your horse’s teeth should be examined, as dental problems can lead to insufficiently chewed feed. A gastroscopy can be used to rule out stomach ulcers (see the corresponding article).
For successful treatment, it is important to identify and address as many triggering factors as possible.
To treat watery feces, medications are used to thicken the feces and normalize their pH level. Your veterinarian will administer these, if necessary, initially via a nasogastric tube. If there is an imbalance in the gut microbiota (= abnormal gut flora), antibiotics must also be administered. Afterward, your horse’s gut flora must be carefully restored. In the event of severe fluid loss and, if necessary, electrolyte loss, your horse will receive appropriate intravenous fluids. If your horse’s manure contains a lot of sand, feed soaked psyllium husks as directed by your veterinarian. These bind the sand. If the watery manure is accompanied by severe bloating, you can give your horse a mixture of anise, caraway, and fennel as a cooled tea or as a powder mixed into its feed for the first few weeks.
To restore the disrupted balance of gut bacteria and regenerate the intestinal mucosa, you can, in consultation with your veterinarian, carry out a so-called gut reset over the course of one to two months. Your veterinarian will be happy to advise you on this.
Your veterinarian will also review the quantity, composition, and quality of the feed. Roughage must be of impeccable quality and must not be contaminated with mold, yeast, or bacteria. Under no circumstances should you feed haylage or other silage-based feeds. You should not feed concentrates for the first few months, nor should you feed any dietary supplements that are not intended for watery feces therapy. Also, do not feed any products containing lactic acid bacteria or brewer’s yeast.
For the time being, your horse should therefore receive only hay, mineral feed, and, if necessary, electrolytes. Also provide a salt lick.
Another important factor is reducing stress through housing and feeding conditions as well as riding activities (see Prevention).
Intrinsic (i.e., internally generated) stress can be reduced by administering tryptophan, magnesium, or calming herbs such as valerian, hops, lemon balm, lavender, and chamomile.
The prognosis for a complete and lasting recovery varies from case to case. It depends heavily on how well the underlying triggers can be identified and addressed.
Species-appropriate care and feeding, as well as minimizing stress, are the key factors in preventing the development of diarrhea.
Minimize the diet-related triggers mentioned above and feed only hay that is hygienically sound, ideally from the early first cut. Have your horse’s teeth checked annually by your veterinarian and treated if necessary.
When keeping horses in groups, ensure a balanced herd composition and sufficient space for exercise. The introduction of new horses should be done slowly and gradually. If your horse is stabled, it should have ample time in the paddock or pasture with sufficient opportunity for free movement. Neighbors in adjacent stalls should get along well. Other stress-inducing situations, depending on the horse, can include, for example, competitions, transport, veterinary treatments, hoof care, or being overworked during daily training. A slow and trusting acclimatization to such situations, along with gentle, expert training and education, are key to success here.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace veterinary advice. Please contact your veterinary practice directly.
Many pet owners start by comparing the monthly premium when looking at pet health insurance. 30 euros or 45 euros? Zero euros or a 250-euro deductible? 80 percent or 100 percent coverage? These questions are important, but they are by no means the deciding factor in whether a pet health insurance plan will actually cover the costs in an emergency. After all, two plans can both advertise “100 percent coverage” and still differ in their benefits—differences that could amount to several thousand euros down the line. That’s exactly why it’s worth taking a close look at the fine print. In this article, we’ll show you ten benefits that many pet owners overlook when signing up, but which can make a huge difference in an emergency.
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